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Solubilized Azelaic Acid vs Suspensions
Ingredients

Last Updated 6 nov 2026

Solubilized Azelaic Acid vs Suspensions

Author
|
Board-Certified Dermatologist
Dr. Muneeb Shah

If you have used azelaic acid and found it gritty, chalky or oddly thick, that is not the ingredient. It is the formulation.

Azelaic acid presents a genuine chemistry problem, and how a product solves it determines almost everything about how that product feels. Here is what is happening inside the bottle.

The Problem: Azelaic Acid Barely Dissolves in Water

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with poor water solubility. At the concentrations used in skincare, most of it will not dissolve.

That leaves formulators with a choice. Either suspend the undissolved particles in a thick base so they stay evenly distributed, or find a way to actually dissolve them.

Traditionally, the answer has been suspension.

What a Suspension Is

In a suspension, the azelaic acid is present as fine solid particles held in a cream or gel. It has not dissolved. It is distributed.

This is why suspended azelaic acid products behave the way they do:

They feel gritty or sandy. You are feeling actual particulate.

They are thick. The base has to be viscous enough to keep the particles from settling out.

They can pill or leave a cast. Undissolved solids do not spread evenly and do not layer cleanly under sunscreen or makeup.

They can look chalky as they dry. Particles left on the surface scatter light.

None of this means a suspension does not work. Prescription azelaic acid products have generated most of the clinical evidence for this ingredient, and several are suspensions. It does mean the texture is a consequence of chemistry rather than an indicator of strength.

What Solubilized Means

Solubilized means fully dissolved. Instead of solid particles distributed through a base, the azelaic acid is in solution, and the product is a clear liquid rather than an opaque cream.

Getting there requires a solvent system capable of dissolving azelaic acid, or converting it into a more soluble form, or both.

The practical differences are ones you can feel:

No grit, because there are no particles.

A lighter texture, because the base does not need to be thick enough to suspend anything.

Cleaner layering, because a solution spreads evenly rather than depositing solids.

Does Dissolved Mean More Effective?

This is where it is worth being careful, because it is the claim most often overstated.

Dissolving an active does not automatically mean more of it penetrates the skin. Solubility and skin penetration are related but not the same thing, and penetration depends on the whole vehicle, not solely on whether the active is in solution.

What can be said is that the vehicle matters a great deal. The clearest published example compares two prescription formulations: a 15% azelaic acid gel delivered 25.3% of its active into the viable layers of the skin, while a 20% cream delivered 3.4%. The cream contained more azelaic acid and delivered substantially less of it.

The variable there is formulation, not concentration.

So the accurate statement is this. Solubilization reliably changes texture, and texture is not a trivial benefit, since the clinical results for azelaic acid come from twice-daily use over 8 to 12 weeks and a product you avoid delivers nothing at all. Whether any given formula also improves delivery depends on the vehicle as a whole rather than on the word solubilized.

Since published data on specific solubilized formulas is limited, look for brands that have tested their finished formula in a third-party clinical study. Remedy's 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Advanced Clarifying Serum (10% pure azelaic acid + 5% glycinated azelaic acid), a fully solubilized formula, was clinically proven to improve dark spots and redness in 97.5% of participants in a single-center, dermatologist-evaluated clinical study (n=40).

The pH Wrinkle

There is one more piece worth understanding, because it explains something people notice.

Azelaic acid's solubility is pH dependent. In its acid form it dissolves poorly. In its salt form, at a higher pH, it dissolves readily. So a solubilized formula generally sits at a higher pH than a traditional suspension.

Skin is naturally more acidic than that. When a formula at a higher pH meets skin at a lower one, the local pH shifts.

This also explains why some people see fine crystals form around a dropper or bottle neck. As the water evaporates, the concentration rises and azelaic acid comes back out of solution. It is expected behavior for a solution of a poorly soluble compound, not a sign the product has degraded.

What to Look For

Texture on application. Grit that you can feel between your fingers means undissolved particulate.

Appearance. Solutions are generally clear or lightly tinted. Opaque white creams are usually suspensions.

Solvent choice. Solubilizing azelaic acid requires a solvent. Some are better tolerated than others. Propylene glycol is effective and also a recognized contact irritant for some people. Ethoxydiglycol is another commonly used option and is generally regarded as better tolerated. If you have reactive skin, this part of the ingredient list is worth reading.

Clinical testing. Whether the finished formula, not just the ingredient, has been tested in a third-party clinical study.

Whether you will use it. This sounds unserious and it is not. Clinical results in azelaic acid trials come from twice-daily application over 8 to 12 weeks. A texture you avoid is a texture that does not work.

Mistakes to Avoid

🚫 Reading grit as potency:

It is undissolved solids, nothing more.

🚫 Reading dissolved as automatically stronger:

Solubilization is a texture and formulation achievement. Efficacy claims still rest on the evidence for the active itself.

🚫 Assuming crystals mean spoilage:

For a solubilized product, minor crystallization at the opening is expected.

🚫 Choosing on concentration alone:

The delivery figures above show why that is unreliable.

Final Thoughts

Azelaic acid has excellent clinical evidence and a longstanding formulation problem. Suspension was the traditional answer and it works, at the cost of texture. Solubilization solves the texture problem, which matters more than it sounds, because adherence is the variable that decides most outcomes. Just keep the two claims separate: better texture is a formulation fact, better results is a testing question.

Doctor's Note
  • Azelaic acid barely dissolves in water. Traditional products suspend it as solid particles, which is where the gritty texture comes from.
  • Solubilized means fully dissolved. That reliably improves texture and layering. It does not by itself prove better penetration or better results.
  • Vehicle can matter more than concentration. One published comparison showed a 15% gel delivering 25.3% of its active into skin against 3.4% for a 20% cream.
The Research

Mariano-Rodriguez C, Nava-Martinez P, Diaz-Molina VL. Azelaic Acid in Dermatology: A Review of Its Mechanism of Action. Cureus. 2025;17(10):e94491.

Feng X, Shang J, Gu Z, Gong J, Chen Y, Liu Y. Azelaic acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2024;17:2359-2371.

Dr. Muneeb Shah

Board-Certified Dermatologist

Dr. Muneeb Shah

Dr. Muneeb Shah

Board-Certified Dermatologist

Dr. Muneeb Shah is a double Board-Certified Dermatologist and Micrographic Dermatologic Surgeon in Hudson Yards, New York. He is passionate about educating the public on common skin issues and has accrued a following of 21+ million across his social media platforms on TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube.

Location: New York City, NY

Doctor's Note
  • Azelaic acid barely dissolves in water. Traditional products suspend it as solid particles, which is where the gritty texture comes from.
  • Solubilized means fully dissolved. That reliably improves texture and layering. It does not by itself prove better penetration or better results.
  • Vehicle can matter more than concentration. One published comparison showed a 15% gel delivering 25.3% of its active into skin against 3.4% for a 20% cream.
The Research

Mariano-Rodriguez C, Nava-Martinez P, Diaz-Molina VL. Azelaic Acid in Dermatology: A Review of Its Mechanism of Action. Cureus. 2025;17(10):e94491.

Feng X, Shang J, Gu Z, Gong J, Chen Y, Liu Y. Azelaic acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2024;17:2359-2371.